We all know that Texas is home
to some of the greatest Pit Masters in the world. Barbecue outside of this state’s borders can
get pretty dicey. I was told that
Naaman’s Championship BBQ had the best barbecue in Bowie County. However, I was understandably nervous about
dining at a former Arkansas food truck still within literal spitting distance
of Arkansas (I am not advocating spitting on the lovely state of Arkansas).
Naaman’s transitioned from the
world of competitive barbecue (as the name suggests) to a food truck in Ashdown, Arkansas before
finally moving to this permanent building on the Texas side of State Line
Avenue in September 2013. The orders are placed inside the
building, but the very large food truck is still the center of operations. The meat is cut and orders are prepared
behind the scenes then delivered to your table.
THE MEATS
After learning that Naaman’s
had no sausage today, I chose the pulled pork to accompany my order of brisket
and pork ribs.
Naaman’s has a clearly posted ban on chopping their brisket, showing their pride in the star meat. The brisket came out with a sampling of both lean and fatty cuts. This fact alone already had endeared Naaman’s to me. Both cuts looked great with a thin black crust and a sliver of a smoke ring. A thin layer of fat still clung to the edge of the lean pieces of meat. The fatty cut was a thick slice featuring veins of perfectly juicy, well rendered fat. Though cut thick, the meat was perfectly moist and soft against my teeth. The lean cuts were also moist and neither lacked flavor. The brisket featured a heavier rub than you generally expect with plenty of salt. A wealth of smoke pushed through the flavor of the rub, delighting my taste buds. The slices held firmly together on the plate, but surrendered to my teeth with no effort. This was some delightfully prepared beef.
Like the brisket, the ribs had
a wonderful texture. The meat held well
to the bone but yielded a delightfully juicy and tender bite. Unlike the brisket, the heavy
rub distracted me from the natural flavor of the meat. These ribs featured a heavy amount of spices,
extending beyond simple salt and pepper.
The rub had a trace amount of heat along with a slight sweetness that
together, overpowered the flavor of the meat.
The ribs were not bad, they were just unremarkable.
The pulled pork was a juicy
heap on my plate. The meat was
tender, succulent and overall, just really good. The pork had flecks of black pepper
throughout and the crust was worth seeking out with its smoky
flavor. The preparation was very
straightforward but was quite heavy on the salt, which had me refilling my tea
glass.
THE REST
Naaman's building is very clearly an old gas
station, but renovations have created an inviting dining area. If you prefer to eat outside, Naaman’s also has a
few picnic tables for you under an awning out front. Orders are placed at the front counter, but a friendly staff delivers the meat to your table and makes sure you have everything you need throughout the meal.
Thick sauce is served in a
bottle on the side and comes out in a bright red laser-like stream. The flavor harmonizes the intense hue of the
sauce with an intense amount of sweetness.
This sauce was just too sweet for me.
Besides, the meat didn’t need the stuff.
The homemade beans match the
unnatural color of the sauce and contain the same sweetness. However, the flavor was well balanced by a
nice spiciness and a generous amount of brisket. That spiciness lingered and grew with each
bite. It had me, once again refilling my
tea, but did not slow me down.
THE VERDICT
Naaman's has earned that Championship moniker with some exceptional barbecue. The brisket and pork have secured Naaman's the Texarkana barbecue crown and are also some of the best meats I've had east of Dallas. The ribs need some work but it is hard to pick at a place that does so much right, from the meats to the sides to the atmosphere. It is fortuitous for us that Naaman's has setup shop on the Texas side of the border because the area's best Texas BBQ belongs in Texas.
Phone: 903-826-2827
Hours: Tuesday - Saturday: 11AM - 8PM
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