There is not a vast barbecue selection in the region that Ozona occupies. In fact, there is very little of anything in this region. I was admittedly a bit hesitant to stop at Wagon Wheel BBQ originally but I was determined to find some BBQ in this stretch of West Texas and this re-purposed gas station seemed to be as good a stop as any.
THE MEATS
To start off, the ribs certainly looked the part with a dark, flecked skin covering a thin ring of pink. The smoke on these ribs was not immense, but the flavor was clearly influenced by the wood – oak – a surprise for this area. The ribs were a bit soft, but were still able to hang onto the bone and carry a bit of a chew. The meat held good moisture throughout and the simple rub showcased the pleasing wood flavor on the bark. These ribs were well prepared and are perhaps some of the best in this stretch of the state.
The thick slice of brisket surprised me. The brisket was cut from the fatty end and remained untrimmed. This is not a bad thing but is unheard of in some stretches of the state. Unfortunately, there were still some gobs of fat that were not as buttery soft as you would hope for. I trimmed those pieces manually and shoved them to the side. Like the ribs, the brisket had traces of smoke and the influence of oak was clear. The meat held a pleasing moisture and the bark carried a simple rub with a high proportion of thick black pepper.
THE REST
The sides were pretty standard and not much to speak of. The bread however, was homemade and well above what you expect at your typical BBQ stop. The peach cobbler was also pleasing and a nice complement to the meal.
The sauce, served on the side, is your run of the mill, smoky tomato based mixture. I did not care for it.
THE VERDICT
Overall, this was a nice find in West Texas. The ribs were good and even the brisket was above average. If you are traveling to or from the far stretches of the state, this old gas station is a nice place to fill up.
Hours: Tuesday - Saturday: 11AM - 8PM; Sunday: 12PM - 6PM
Thanks! I'll check it out tomorrow.
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